Tuesday, August 30, 2011

I love food.

Finally I'm somewhere familiar. For the last five days, I've been wandering (or more often tagging along with others) through unfamiliar parts of Chiang Mai. Though so much of Chiang Mai contains extraordinarily vivid images in my mind, the part of the city that I've been staying in is utterly removed from those memories. Unfortunately, without an inborn sense of direction, I feared returning to the Chiang Mai University area, where I know my way, because I wouldn't be able to get back. However today, five days into my time here, I did it. I grabbed a tuk tuk and met with my friend from three years ago, Kratai, for lunch.

Not only was it nice to find myself in a part of town I knew and with a friend I'd not seen in a long time, but Kratai took me to her favorite restaurant and ordered the food. Perfect. I told her I would eat anything, so she went to town. Green mango salad. Spicy calamari salad. Pork neck with sweet chili sauce. Chicken som tum soup (a clear broth and lemongrass soup). Everything was spicy; everything was delicious. My tastebuds were alive with all the reasons I love this city.

It is true, I'm getting ready to leave this lovely town to head up to the refugee camp, and my eating will quite possibly change dramatically. But the thing is, at the end of the day, I can claim no great hardship, because I get to leave when I choose, and I get to come back to a city like this where a friend can order a feast, and still we both pay less than two and a half dollars. I can only be grateful that in my life I get a choice.

Thursday, August 25, 2011

listening to the rain

I seem to sleep in 3 hour chunks right now. 4:30 PM to 7:30 PM (oops!). 11:30 PM to 2:30 AM. I'm not sure when the next sleep shift is coming, but it's hard to be upset to be awake right now when all around me outside I hear the sound of a soft rain on tin roofs everywhere. It's a beautiful sound. There's a light breeze carrying with it other wonderful smells of Chiang Mai into my room through the open windows, and in this sleepless moment, I am happy to be here and happy to be awake and able to store this moment in my memory.

Chiang Mai

First day in Chiang Mai: talk to Partners, attempt to read which turned into a 3 hour nap, pad thai, Quiz Night at the local Irish pub. Not a bad start.

Wednesday, August 24, 2011

Ramadan Mubarak!

Safely made it to my layover in Doha, where I'm very grateful the sun set shortly before we landed so I could freely drink water in public (during Ramadan). The Doha airport is also quite a pleasant layover airport--clean, relatively small, and clearly marked signs. Getting a whole row all to myself on the 14 hour flight here makes flying Qatar Airways something I will attempt every chance I get. I am rested and refreshed, ready for the next 7 hour flight.

Tuesday, August 23, 2011

Where I start and end...

I'm in DC, and tonight I get on a flight that will begin the journey to the Thai-Burma border.

Saturday, August 20, 2011

Documents and anxiety...

Today is my final full day in North Carolina. It frightens me to think that tomorrow I load my suitcase into a car and drive with my parents to DC. Thankfully, nearly every new life experience (minus just a few) has started in DC for me, and the ritual will bring about its own calmness.

At the moment, however, I don't feel the calmness of my DC ritual. I keep staring at my duffel bag and thinking I've got too much stuff and thinking about weeding out still a little more. Then I run through my list of documents that I need on the airplane: Qatar Airways itinerary, Qmiles membership card... wait, what airline is it that I'm flying from Bangkok to Chiang Mai? My mind freezes and for a few horrible seconds I wonder if it's all in my head that I've even purchased a ticket from Bangkok to Chiang Mai. Being stuck in Bangkok without any plans sounds horrid, but, good news, I'm flying Bangkok Airways. I will also need the paper with my membership to that airline's frequent flyer list. Additionally, I need the address of the couple I'm staying with when I get to Chiang Mai, and I should probably have the address of Partners. Oh, and my virtual insurance card. I definitely need to print that. Somehow, all of this makes me feel slightly anxious that I might forget any one of them and then reminds me that I'm not coming back, which scares me, even as I'm simultaneously so excited to be going.

Of course, there's also all the things I'd like to copy for my parents before I leave (passport, itinerary, vaccination records, etc.), and still all the other things I'd like to accomplish. For example, I'd really like to see my mom's new food blog set up and ready to go: Grandma's Gone Global (she's hasn't written anything yet, but I cannot imagine a better chef for a global food blog).

And then in that rare moment, when my thoughts are not focused on all that I must accomplish, I remember why I'm doing this. I'm going for people like this one:

Not So Different from Partners Relief & Development on Vimeo.

And these:

War Refugee from Partners Relief & Development on Vimeo.

The first video is of a Karen girl, and the next video is of a Kachin refugee camp, which are both different than the Shan, with whom I'll be working, but I cannot find a better way to explain why I'm going, because all three groups have been victims of the same military regime. And when I remember these, I feel strangely very focused, and all anxiety about the details of this document or that falls away in light of the purpose of going.

Wednesday, August 17, 2011

Journey without an end date...

In the last few days I have most undoubtedly begun procrastinating the very final touches that would allow me to zip up my bags and call them packed. It's not that I am any less excited to go, because I am excited... but... there's something final in those last actions that reminds that this time I do not know when I'll return. In five days I get on an airplane and fly to Thailand. This time my itinerary doesn't have "round trip" checked in the little box, and there's not a return ticket saved somewhere in cyberspace. For once I am not planning with an end date looming.

I've lived a rather nomadic life for the last eight years, and each experience has always come with a specified amount of time and commitment. I've welcomed those end dates, knowing that I could plan based on them. Paging - 9 mos. Germany - 11 mos. College - 4 years. Egypt - 4 mos. Thailand (the first time) - 4 mos. Teach for America - 2 years. During this time, I've lived with 35 different people, and each housing/rooming experience likewise had a start and end date, sometimes a fact I mourned and other times a fact I hung onto.

One distinctive part of my life has, therefore, necessarily become planning for the "thing after this thing." On the one hand, I have a real strength for long-term planning and casting vision. On the other hand, my futuristic dreams have also pulled me away at times from the present moment. Sometimes I wanted that and admittedly used the future as an escape, and sometimes that's just how life worked, because I had some application or resume to work on.

But now: Thailand (the second time) - indefinite.

So here's to the present and living life, for a little while, without leaning on my knowledge of what comes next. :)

Friday, August 12, 2011

Who loses under sanctions?

Sanctions have always been one of those tricky subjects. In my mind, there has to be a place for the tools of soft diplomacy... and, yet, what do economic sanctions actually accomplish?

Today I stumbled across this article from the Financial Times, titled "How sanctions made Burma's richest man." Referring to a man too close to the Burmese government for American interests, it describes,

"European and US nationals are banned from doing business with him – and his estranged wife, oldest son, mother, brother or sister-in-law. Yet his wine cellar is stocked with a series of vintages from Chateaux Petrus and Margaux, while a Rolls-Royce and a Lamborghini stand next to the Ferrari. His palatial Rangoon home sits down the street from the dilapidated villa where Nobel laureate Aung San Suu Kyi spent more than 15 years under house arrest."

If only the powerful, well-connected, and government officials have continued to be able to profit while under sanctions, one can't help but wonder who are they hurting? Is it just those who would have made up a middle class through trade and foreign exchange?

I am neither for nor against the sanctions, because I do not have the economic background to really examine whether they are successfully impacting the intended individuals, but articles like this one make me nervous and frustrated. I want there to be some sort of soft diplomacy magic pill that puts all the right pressure on regimes that abuse their people.

Tuesday, August 09, 2011

What if I had never been a Page?

When I was 16, I left home to travel to DC and spend my junior year of high school working for Congress as a U.S. House of Representatives Page. During this time I attended school from 6:45 AM to an hour before Congress went into session or 11:30 AM at the latest. I frequently worked late nights, often after midnight, and when I didn't, I still had homework to do until midnight and then got up at 5am the next day. I was exhausted all the time, and yet I consider it the best choice I ever made, and I know I would not be who I am today, were it not for the Page Program. I learned discipline there, in a way I could not have learned anywhere else, and a passion was lit in me for people and places that I never imagined. Sadly, yesterday the Speaker of the House, John Boehner (R-Ohio), announced the ending of the Page Progam, a 235 year tradition, due to the prohibitive costs. I cannot tell you the travesty this is for all the young high schoolers of every economic background that the program accepts and gives the opportunity of a lifetime to. In fact, I cannot tell you the travesty this is for the country who gains far more than the annual $5 million it pays to run the program from the kinds of individuals that the program produces.

For me, Paging snowballed into a series of events that fundamentally changed my life direction for infinitely better. So, in light of that, and in honor of the program that this country should truly grieve, I ask what if I had never been a page? If I had never been a Page, then I, who entered with a desire to go into medicine, would never have encountered the hard questions that eventually led me into the humanities. I would never have known a self-proclaimed communist friend or a socialist government teacher. I would have maintained a black-and-white view that such ideas lacked no merit or logic, rather than see them in a three dimensional understanding. I would also have not met a gay friend until sometime in college and probably would have been still firmer in my black-and-white stance on that one, showing little understanding and finding no need to address the issue. I would also not have encountered the feelings of facing beggars on a daily basis and trying to juggle compassionate and sustainable responses. I wouldn't have met a man on the streets from my hometown and realized how quickly one's privilege can disappear in a few short bad choices or bad luck. I would today be far less of a compassionate individual than I am, and I would not have met my dearest friend, Mike, who has walked with me through all of life's twists and turns and challenged me into being a better me. In short, my views would not have been stretched, and I would have remained fully enmeshed in a conservative, evangelical subculture without any opportunity to see the greater world or understand another perspective.

Moreover, I certainly would not have ever learned of the Congress-Bundestag Youth Exchange, so I would never have gone to Germany on a full scholarship. I would never have become fluent in a second language, meaning my brain would be far less developed and I would be culturally less understanding. I would not have developed a deeper compassion for immigrants into America or some understanding of minority-hood. I probably would not have paid so much attention to racism in the church in America, and I would not have gotten involved in groups to help compassionately bring understanding of white privilege in college. I would also not have met my German friend, Judith, who grew up in Egypt and challenged my biases about Arabs. I wouldn't have experienced those conversations or have been nearly as open to the possibility of one day traveling to Egypt myself, having only a very negative stereotypical (and racist) view of that part of the world. I wouldn't have experienced my German family or friends, who taught me what real cultural immersion meant and have proven to me that true immersion is possible and not a frightening thing to be avoided. I wouldn't have been nearly as courageous about travel later.

Of course, not having been a Page and not having gone to Germany, I would not have looked nearly as impressive on college applications either. I would likely have continued through my last two years of high school taking classes at the community college. Even with strong SAT scores, I would not have been so exciting for the College Honors Program at Messiah College and probably would not have gotten a 60% scholarship. Being surrounded by North Carolinians, who all went to state schools, I would likely have done the same and attended school in Chapel Hill, because it was more affordable. I would have found myself involved campus ministries that affirmed my faith, but I would not have had theology classes that gave me the space to question everything or forced me to ask myself if my faith had become more American than loving. I probably would have kept God in my religious, evangelical box.

Of course, having stayed at the community college throughout high school, I would have had only two years of college left and would not have had time to study abroad. I would not have ever participated in the Middle East Studies Program, traveling to Egypt, Turkey, Syria, Jordan, and Israel, and the Arab Spring that occurred this past spring would have meant nothing to me, save for how it affected my sister's security. I would also not have gone to Thailand, because, even if a program was offered at the state school of my choice and I had the time to participate, it would have been far too exotic for a first-time overseas experience. I might have studied in a place like England, where I wouldn't been really forced so much to face the fact that people of deep faith commitments practice different religions than me. I wouldn't have noticed how much I respected certain faith leaders, regardless of religion, and how much others disgusted me--that this fact remained as true for other religions as for Christianity. Most definitely, I would not have ever made it to a refugee camp on the Thai-Burma border, where a long-term commitment would form for the victims of the Burmese regime.

And Teach for America? Well, at that point, I would have been just an ordinary student with an ordinary educational background. Perhaps I would have been very successful in my couple years of college, and perhaps I would have taken a couple leadership positions that would have made me stand out in the areas that mattered most to Teach for America. Perhaps I would have had a chance of acceptance, but, most likely, I would never have developed a passion or deep interest in alleviating the achievement gap formed out of my own privilege, so I probably wouldn't have even applied and would probably be finishing up medical school or something like that right now. I would not have met Kalanda or Braylen or Coddie or Travis or Lederricka or Camisha or Trevis or Chris or Crystal or so many other students who fundamentally changed my approach towards youth. I wouldn't know now about loving others, regardless of the returned sentiment. I wouldn't know how to lead or manage the way I learned in controlling my classroom.

I would not be a teacher. I would not have found this calling, and I would not have given back to society in that way or be about to head over to the Thai-Burma border as a teacher. Perhaps I would plan on doing medical missions one day, but probably those would be distant dreams. I would be leading a good life, even a compassionate life, but my world would be small, and I would not know the kind of deep caring that I have discovered in far away places.

I will never put a price tag on what the Page Program gave me or any of the other thousands of students who had the opportunity to serve in DC under its auspices. We are who we are because of this opportunity. I am so grateful and so deeply grieved that future students will never have this opportunity again. Ending it simply does not make good economic sense, for we will always give back more than we received in mere dollar amounts.

Monday, August 08, 2011

Remembering 8888

Today is the 23rd anniversary of the 8888 (as in August 8, 1988) student protests in Burma. Students and citizens of all walks of life (monks, lawyers, farmers, etc.) desiring democracy successfully toppled three consecutive dictatorships in 31 days. Protests continued every single day all over the country on into September. On September 18, 1988 General Saw Maung retook control of the country, leading to the deaths of an estimated 1,500 students, monks, and schoolchildren in the first week of power. Five hundred of those were slaughtered in front of the US Embassy, as protesters appealed to the US and UN to take a stand. In all, it is estimated that 10,000 individuals died during the protests and unrest.

Today I honor the dreams of the protesters of 8888. I hope for the day when Burmese citizens will see the dreams of 8888 fulfilled. I pray for the citizens of all democracy movements, such as we see with this year's Arab Spring, to see success more immediately than Burmese citizens have yet felt. Most of all, I hold onto hope, for I truly believe "the arc of the moral universe is long, but it bends toward justice" (MLK).

Remember 8888.

Monday, August 01, 2011

August has arrived

I bought my ticket to Thailand back in January. At the time, I remember thinking how long I had before August would come, and it was true. I still had left 1/2 a year of teaching (a whole 1/4 of my TFA experience). I needed to focus on my Louisianan students and be present for them. I had to also tell them I wouldn't be coming back and tell them that I loved them.

Those months have soared past, and August has finally arrived. In 22 short days, I board an airplane to Doha, from there I take an airplane to Bangkok, and finally an airplane to Chiang Mai, where I will spend a few days before heading to the border.

People have lately been asking "How do you feel about leaving?" It's really a strange sort of question. Truthfully, I'm in action mode. At the beginning of the summer, I was in reflection mode and felt a lot of different things, but now it's action time. I have tie up all loose ends, buy any last minute items (ziploc bags!), and pack it up. Mostly, I guess I just feel ready. I've been preparing, and it's time to go. But, yes, I will miss people, and, yes, my parents are sad to have both their daughters so far away. Please comfort them if you see them. These are the questions asked most often, but the other side of it is also, yes, it's time for August to be here.